Headless Guitar
Headless Guitar Build:
Main Features:
Individual Bridge Tuners
Swappable Face Plates
Adjustable Titanium Nut
Hidden Humbucker Mounts
6 Internal Linear Rods
Part in Slicer Software:
Sliced Part: 25% infill, 4 Perimeter Layers
Front:
Front CAD model of the Guitar
Back:
Back CAD model of the Guitar
Build Vision:
The goal with this project is to make a headless guitar, which I have never done before. To preface, the style of this guitar is heavily inspired by the Strandberg headless guitar. Starting off, I wanted to make this relatively portable and lightweight while still being a full fledged guitar. With my previous experience of building a 3D printed telecaster of my own design, I wanted to implement what I learned previously and improve on what I learned from that project.
What did I learn?
This time around I want to use thicker linear rods for a more sturdy guitar frame.
In my telecaster, I used one main 12 mm rod running down the middle of the guitar frame and two smaller 8 mm rods for additional strength. This was not enough.
I will be using either four or five 12 - 14 mm rods for this project.
Use more perimeter layers and higher density infill.
In my telecaster, I used 4 perimeter layers and 20% infill, but this was not rigid enough for my liking. The guitar would easily flex and go out of tune.
I will be using 8 perimeter layers and 50% infill this time around.
Build Process and Design Choices:
Printing Parameters:
Printed in PETG so that you can put the guitar in a car without it warping.
Upper Main Body and Lower Main Body - 50% gyroid infill, 8 Perimeter Layers
Upper Right Body and Lower Right Body - 25% gyroid infill, 4 Perimeter Layers
Upper Left Body and Lower Left Body - 25% gyroid infill, 4 Perimeter Layers
Main Body:
The Guitar comprises primarily of 6 main body parts and 6 cover pieces. The cover pieces rest on top of the main body components and will be securely attached with alignment pegs and magnets
Drop Top/Swappable Face Plates:
The Drop Top will be removable and swappable with any filament color the user wants. The plates will have magnets embedded in them for easy swapping.
Pickup System:
Looking at other Headless Guitars, I noticed that all the guitars without pickguards would have their pickups directly screwed into the body of the guitar. I personally don't find this aesthetically pleasing. For this build, I have the idea of using the Drop Top to cover the screws and pickup cavity. The pickups can be mounted to the body or to the Drop Top.
Electronics Cavity:
I've always used screws for any electronics cavity, however I wanted to try using neodynium magnets. It will make accessing the control cavity much faster and pleasant.
Headless Guitar Components:
Main Body Components:
3D printed Guitar Body
25 fret Wenge Neck (24 frets and zero fret)
Adjustable Titanium Nut
Fender Strap Buttons
String Lock
Neodynium Magnets
6 Linear Rods
Electronics:
Alnico 5 Double Coil Humbucker Pickups - Bridge and Neck
CTS 450 G 500k Potentiometers
Fender 3 - Way Switch
Orange Drop Capacitors - 0.022uF
Pure Tone Multi-Contact 1/4 inch Output Jack
Bullet Case Guitar Knobs - 6 mm diameter
Copper Tape
Basic Necessary Tools:
Soldering Iron, Soldering Wire, Soldering Tip Cleaner
Hookup Wire
Wire Strippers
Designing the Headless Guitar:
Internal Linear Rod Placement:
In my Telecaster build I used one main 12 mm linear rod in the middle and 2 smaller 8 mm rods to strengthen the section of the body that would be subjected to all of the string tension of the guitar, however this wasn't enough as the body still flexed a decent amount and the guitar would go out of tune while playing regularly.
To mitigate this effect, I decided to add many more linear rods and to print the main section of the body with much higher infill and many more perimeter layers. I decided on:
8 perimeter layers and 50% infill
2 inner rods that are 12 mm in diameter and 200 mm in length
2 rods next to the inner rods that are 12 mm in diameter and 150 mm in length
2 outer rods placed slightly higher at a 155 degree angle that are 8 mm in diameter
The left rod is 200 mm and the right rod is 150 mm
Originally, I was going to use 10 mm rods, but I could not source the correct length rods with this diameter so I opted for the 8 mm ones.
Drop Top/Swappable Face Pieces:
Results:
The headless guitar turned out very nicely: The 6 linear rods and 50% infill of the middle main pieces ended up being much heavier than I anticipated, but resolved the flexing issues that I had with my Telecaster build. However, there is one main issue that I am still trying to find the solution to. The G string slips when locked into the Floyd Rose system. I believe this is due to the fact that the string its locked down with a much thicker string - the D string. The G string is very smooth and slippery; I don't think the Locking Nut can clamp the string down. In contrast, the D string is much coarser and has ridges, which allows the Floyd Rose locking nut to hold the guitar string much better.
Problems with the Current Design:
After having played with the instrument for a while, I've come to find a few issues with my design. The cheap individual bridges hold up perfectly fine and look beautiful with the guitar. The problem stems from the locking nut. The Floyd Rose style locking nut was not designed to hold strings in place - they provide better intonation along with standard tuners - and because of this, the strings slip due to being different roughnesses and diameters. To improve the design, I will need to find individual string locks.
Guitar String Ridges:
The texture of the thicker strings allows the Ibanez style string lock to hold the strings in place. However, the strings still generally slip. Although stylish, the Ibanez string lock wasn't designed for this purpose and doesn't hold the strings well.
D and G String Comparison:
The texture of the thinner strings are both different diameter and smoother than the thicker strings. Since the D string is thicker and rougher than the G string, the G string slips out of the string lock.
Future Upgrades/Updates:
Improved String Lock Mechanism:
I can use the string locks that came with the individual bridges, but I would like to find a more elegant solution.
Improved Individual Bridges:
I can try to source Ibanez Q headless guitar bridges. These are very difficult to find.
I can try hipshot solo headless guitar bridges if I'm unable to source the Ibanez ones.
Ibanez Q Mono-Tune Bridges:
I love the Design and look of these bridges. However, they are very hard to source and I can't seem to buy them from anywhere.
Hipshot Solo Bridges:
These Hipshot Solo bridges are a close second in terms of design, but they are very expensive. maybe I'll be able to use them one day.
Color Scheme/Design Update:
The original build was inspired by a specific guitar that I was looking at. I might switch from the black and white color scheme to the black and tan color scheme. However, I would serisouly need to resolve the string slip issue and upgrade the individual bridges. In addition, I will need to get the proper tools to properly finish the neck.